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The Scotsman

Interiors: Tower of strength
By FIONA ARMSTRONG

THERE WERE MOMENTS during the refurbishment of The White Tower when Naomi Strickland wondered what she and her husband were doing.

"At one point we were standing upstairs with the roof off, looking at the sky," she says.

Luckily her husband had more confidence in their plans. Eric Strickland, senior partner with McKenzie Strickland Associates, an architectural practice with ADVERTISEMENT offices in Aberfeldy and Crieff (where he's from) has never doubted his vision for this remarkable place.

The couple bought the tower two years ago with the intention of turning it into a family home. That plan is on hold, as the location is not conducive to ferrying around two children with hectic social lives. On the other hand, its position – reached via a forest track that climbs into the sky to soar above the Tay Valley – provides just the escapism holidaymakers desire.

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Sunday Times

LIVE-IN HISTORY
42 WHITE TOWER, Perthshire
The White Tower has lorded it over Loch Tay for 500 years and been a desirable holiday perch since at least 1842, when Queen Victoria and Prince Albert dropped by on honeymoon. There’s no record of them simmering in the hot tub on the topmost turret, though. The deluxe digs also include a library, a sauna and eight acres of private woodland, but it’s the rooftop soak you’ll remember – that, and the regal sunsets.

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The Scotsman

Weekend pass
By Fiona Macgregor
Arriving at night, we crept towards our destination with headlights picking out the steep, winding track, trees, heather and, finally, the White Tower. We unpacked our Valvona & Crolla picnic in the splendidly classy kitchen and set about exploring tADVERTISEMENThe beautifully restored 16th-century Tardis of a building where we would spend the weekend.

Spiralling upwards, each floor reeked of quality and taste. Architect Eric McKenzie Strickland and his wife Naomi have mixed traditional tartans, tweed and granite with a hot tub, sauna and the full flat-screen cinema experience, turning the historic building into a luxurious home rather than just holiday accommodation.

Only in the morning did the splendour of our retreat become fully apparent, as we rushed to the rooftop to take in the remarkable 360º view of rusty Perthshire hills, the impressive Taymouth Castle, beautiful Loch Tay and daunting Ben Lawers.

Sumptuous seclusion is the hallmark of this gem of a place, which was built in 1506 as a lookout tower for Taymouth Castle, home to the Marquis of Breadalbane. A mile from the road to Kenmore and perched at the highest point in an eight-acre site, you can escape the world completely or, should you choose, dip into the charming surrounding countryside.

How do I get there? Driving is the best option, taking around 90 minutes from the Central Belt. Head for the A9, follow signs along the stunning valley to Aberfeldy, then, six miles further west, turn off the A827 and up the forest track. If you prefer the train, the nearest stations are Pitlochry and Dunkeld.

What's the food like? The White Tower is self-catering, but there is ample opportunity to stock up the larder in Kenmore. If you choose to eat out, the Courtyard, a bar and deli development at Mains of Taymouth, overseen by an enormously helpful South African, boasts a simple but extremely tasty menu. For those who refuse to leave the comfort of the tower, the deli part of the operation is also happy to deliver.

Bed test The tower sleeps four, in a gold-and-maroon master bedroom that leads to a roof terrace with stunning views, and an en-suite guest bedroom decorated with delicate oriental furnishings. A comfortable night's sleep was challenged only by the purring motor of the hot tub on the roof above us.

Out and about We explored the immediate area on foot, yomping down our hill, then crossing the road into the rolling grounds of Taymouth Castle and golf course, before meandering along the river to Kenmore.

The faded neo-gothic glory of what was at one time arguably the finest castle in Britain offers glorious glimpses of extravagant stained glass, carved wood and plasterwork. Unfortunately, a stalled luxury hotel development has left the building surrounded by a temporary fence that thwarts further inspection.

Kenmore itself is a charming 18th-century planned village with a picturesque square. A number of holiday developments have been bolted on over the years, and locals, golfers, outdoor enthusiasts and Sunday tourers rub shoulders along the village streets and in the pubs, cafés and restaurants.

A short drive will take you to the oldest known tree in Europe, the ancient Fortingall Yew, which is thought to be between 2,000 and 5,000 years old. It stands in the pretty arts-and-craft village of Fortinghall, which boasts a rare sight in Scotland – traditional thatched cottages. For the more energetic, Perthshire offers golf, climbing, rafting, mountain-biking and quad-biking. It is peppered with a wide array of tourist attractions allowing visitors to explore the area's history of crannogs and whisky.

Little extras A beautiful display of fresh flowers greeted us, and basics for a quick breakfast had been left in the fridge – bread, butter, milk and a nice selection of jams and marmalade – to keep us going until brunch at the Courtyard. A small decanter of whisky and some shortbread and carrot cake were also left out for us.

The furnishings and toiletries are of the highest standard. But the biggest treat – if rather bracing at times – is the hot tub on the roof, where you can Jacuzzi to your heart's content while gazing out at some of the finest scenery in the country, with no one to bother you. If you get too carried away, you will find yourself sipping a favourite tipple as the winking stars replace Ben Lawers as a backdrop.

The bottom line The White Tower costs £250 a night and £1,500 a week. All short breaks are for a minimum of three nights. There is still availability for the week from Christmas Eve to New Year's Day, which costs £2,100.